the beginning...
Recently we traveled to Goa from Thane by Mumbai-Goa road. It's a distance of around 570 km. We thought of other options but a sense of adventure that goes with a road trip was too much to resist. And as fate would have it we were not disappointed. We had one major breakdown and a three hour halt for petrol at Mahad in unbearable heat.Following are the times and distances from our records. These are indicative only. We took 3 halts which normal traveler won't take. (Marked in Red). A note for English speaking readers. Locally a mountain pass is called 'Ghat'. The name 'Western Ghats' used for this whole region is a misnomer.
| Location | Km | Time | |
Thane
|
0
|
6:20
|
0:00
|
Karnala
|
50
|
7:30
|
1:10
|
Pen
|
62
|
7:45
|
0:15
|
Vadkal Naka
|
68
|
8:00
|
0:15
|
Nagothane
|
89
|
8:20
|
0:20
|
Pali
|
93
|
8:25
|
0:05
|
Kolad
|
108
|
8:40
|
0:20
|
Indapur
|
119
|
8:55
|
0:15
|
Mangaon
|
125
|
9:00
|
0:05
|
halt
|
125
|
10:15
|
1:15
|
Ruchi Garden
|
135
|
11:00
|
0:45
|
halt
|
135
|
11:20
|
0:00
|
Mahad
|
175
|
12:00
|
0:40
|
halt
|
175
|
14:40
|
2:40
|
Poladpur
Kasheli Ghat |
186
|
14:52
|
0:12
|
Khed
|
222
|
15:35
|
0:43
|
Baste Ghat
|
244
|
16:00
|
0:25
|
Parshuram Ghat
|
250
|
16:15
|
0:15
|
halt
|
250
|
16:45
|
0:00
|
Chiplun
|
258
|
17:00
|
0:15
|
Ghats-12 km
|
269
|
17:15
|
0:15
|
Arawli Ghat
|
286
|
17:35
|
0:20
|
Sangmeshwar
|
304
|
17:54
|
0:19
|
Nivli Ghat
|
325
|
18:20
|
0:26
|
Nivali
|
330
|
18:25
|
0:05
|
Hatkhamba
|
334
|
18:28
|
0:03
|
Ratnagiri
|
345
|
19:00
|
0:32
|
Ratnagiri | 345 | 7:00 | 0:00 |
Hatkhamba
|
356
|
7:30
|
0:30
|
Halt
|
361
|
15:15
|
7:45
|
Pali
|
371
|
15:35
|
0:20
|
Lanja
|
390
|
16:00
|
0:25
|
Vanked Ghat
|
397
|
16:07
|
0:07
|
Oni
|
408
|
16:20
|
0:13
|
Rajapur
|
419
|
16:32
|
0:12
|
Vatul Ghat
|
430
|
16:47
|
0:15
|
Kankavli
|
475
|
17:41
|
0:54
|
Kasal
|
490
|
18:10
|
0:29
|
Kudal
|
509
|
18:30
|
0:20
|
Akeri
|
522
|
18:46
|
0:16
|
Sawantwadi
|
527
|
18:52
|
0:06
|
Insuli Ghat
|
537
|
19:13
|
0:21
|
Goa Border
|
539
|
19:15
|
0:02
|
Goa Excise
|
543
|
19:27
|
0:12
|
Mapusa
|
574
|
19:45
|
0:18
|
Calangut
|
586
|
20:15
|
0:30
|
This distance may seem very short to people used to traveling on express highways. But it is a tough road to drive on, with innumerable turns and mountainous terrain. Especially after Ratnagiri there is hardly any stretch of straight road. It is also the riskiest highway in state of Maharashtra.(1479 deaths in 6 years as per records). It is not as tough as old 'Khandala Ghat' but reckless drivers make it risky. You can not afford to loose your concentration for a moment. But then it is also the most scenic and interesting routes.
It took us 2 days but if you consider our actual drive time of 14 hours, this distance can obviously be covered in 1 day. But I would suggest that you take your time. Take a long halt at 'Parshuram' ghat before 'Chiplun'. View of the 'Vasishthi' river below is breathtaking. Stall owner showed us a oil painting of the view, made by some foreign tourist and gifted to him. Magic of this place can awaken artist in every sensitive visitor.
 |
| Mesmerizing view of 'Vasishti' river from 'Parshuram Ghat' |
on the road...
For us road journey was as important as the destination. Time lost on 2 occasions put a dampener on our plans but it also was the high point of our whole experience.
First time we lost 3 hours due to a reason virtually unknown to a person from Mumbai. Petrol tankers had not arrived in the whole Konkan belt for 2 days so we had to wait at Mahad for nearly 4 hours to get petrol filled. We remembered all the petrol pumps where we could have topped up our tank. Petrol pump people were very helpful and informed us as soon as tanker arrived so that we did not have to waste some more time in a long queue that will be formed eventually.
After Poladpur we encountered the famous Kasheli Ghat. Road just turns and twists without any letup. Our car did not have power steering and my shoulders had full workout by the end of ghat road.
We reached Ratnagiri that day and stayed there. It is a surprisingly costly place to stay. Average tariff for 4 persons was around 2000/- Rs. We got very good food though at 'Hotel Amantran'. the Fish cuisine looked enticing but we preferred vegetarian food.
We had to reach Goa early next day so as to get time to search for a hotel. So we started on time and were fresh and in high spirits, but after just 20 minutes disaster struck us. One of rubber pipes was leaking and all water from radiator was lost. Car stopped midway with no one in sight.
We stopped a passing rickshaw and asked for help. Rickshaw owner checked our car and then phoned his friend but could not get in touch. He assured us that he will go and send a mechanic friend. Meanwhile he had made some 5, 6 calls but won't accept any money from us.
As promised his friend came on his scooter. He checked and immediately understood the problem. Filled water in the radiator and asked us to follow to the garage at Hatkhamba. On reaching garage we offered money for his valuable efforts and time. He denied saying he was just helping a family in distress. Such experiences restore our faith in the people around us.
While our car being attended to we strolled around and found a 'Jambha' stone quarry that was huge and very attractive. After some time we found a mango orchard and relaxed in the shade. My daughter captured a colorful 'Kingfisher' on my camera.
We bought some mangoes that were selling by roadside and restarted our journey. Ratnagiri onward the road was so winding and going up and down that there was never a km of straight flat road. And I loved it!! Konkan is very beautiful but this region is heaven. Road condition was fair may be because we were traveling just before rainy season and all roads are finally repaired and in good condition at this time.
touch down...
During earlier visits we had stayed in either Mapusa or Panjim so this time we wanted to stay near a beach. A search revealed the north beaches as more 'happening' and with lots of options for a stay. so Calangut it was and it proved to be a correct decision. We did not visit any south Goa beach so we can not really compare but from Internet and local information it looks like they are more secluded, quieter. Next time we will surely explore them.
We finally reached Calangut beach that night by 8:30. but due to time pressure we could not enjoy the roadside halts which are the most important part of such a trip.
Next day there was a Bandh declared but we ventured out to visit fort Aguada. Luckily nothing untoward happened. Goan people are peace loving and always ready to help you. Contrary to common perception there is a huge crowd of families who are letting down their inhibitions for a change, not only young and hip.
suggestions...
We would like to list down some of our suggestions after this memorable journey
1. Travel before rainy season. all roads are in good condition at this time
2. Keep fuel tank full all the time.
3. Fill tank fully before leaving Goa. petrol is much cheaper in Goa.
4. Check all rubber parts. they become hard and brittle after a year or 2
5. Commence journey on Tuesday. traffic will be much, much less. check for bandhs, festivals etc. during your vacation. they can affect your plans. they almost did to ours. but Goa is a peace loving state so we ventured out to fort Aguada fort.
6. Stay near a beach in Goa. Real life on these beaches starts after 6 pm when people coming by tour buses leave. It is a different world altogether. Crowd is stylish, hip. Music and hotels right on beach are awesome.
7. Goa beaches mean 'ENJOY'. Curtail your rules or just leave the place. A beer with dinner is must. And your trip is not complete without Goan fish curry . One we had in a hotel on Bagha beach was really great. All this costs money so come with loads of it. I assure you it will still be value for money.
8. Dolphin cruise at fort Aguada is a must. what a experience it was seeing 4 dolphins cruising in front of us. best example of synchronized swimming. and boat ride was a roller coaster. not for fainthearted, may be because monsoon was close and seas were a bit rough.
9. Road via Kolhapur is boring except for Amboli ghat and hill station, It is much longer and you end up paying almost 500/- Rs as toll. but with a good fast car you can save time. Most of the people who think of roads only as means of reaching a destination, prefer this route.
There is so much more to write about.But I will stop here and let you explore some more on your own and share your experiences with me.
Shubh Yatra!!
For us road journey was as important as the destination. Time lost on 2 occasions put a dampener on our plans but it also was the high point of our whole experience.
First time we lost 3 hours due to a reason virtually unknown to a person from Mumbai. Petrol tankers had not arrived in the whole Konkan belt for 2 days so we had to wait at Mahad for nearly 4 hours to get petrol filled. We remembered all the petrol pumps where we could have topped up our tank. Petrol pump people were very helpful and informed us as soon as tanker arrived so that we did not have to waste some more time in a long queue that will be formed eventually.
After Poladpur we encountered the famous Kasheli Ghat. Road just turns and twists without any letup. Our car did not have power steering and my shoulders had full workout by the end of ghat road.
We reached Ratnagiri that day and stayed there. It is a surprisingly costly place to stay. Average tariff for 4 persons was around 2000/- Rs. We got very good food though at 'Hotel Amantran'. the Fish cuisine looked enticing but we preferred vegetarian food.
 |
| Jambha stone quarry. It seemed like a interesting location for a movie shoot. |
We had to reach Goa early next day so as to get time to search for a hotel. So we started on time and were fresh and in high spirits, but after just 20 minutes disaster struck us. One of rubber pipes was leaking and all water from radiator was lost. Car stopped midway with no one in sight.
We stopped a passing rickshaw and asked for help. Rickshaw owner checked our car and then phoned his friend but could not get in touch. He assured us that he will go and send a mechanic friend. Meanwhile he had made some 5, 6 calls but won't accept any money from us.
As promised his friend came on his scooter. He checked and immediately understood the problem. Filled water in the radiator and asked us to follow to the garage at Hatkhamba. On reaching garage we offered money for his valuable efforts and time. He denied saying he was just helping a family in distress. Such experiences restore our faith in the people around us.
 |
| Mango orchard at Hathkhamba |
While our car being attended to we strolled around and found a 'Jambha' stone quarry that was huge and very attractive. After some time we found a mango orchard and relaxed in the shade. My daughter captured a colorful 'Kingfisher' on my camera.
We bought some mangoes that were selling by roadside and restarted our journey. Ratnagiri onward the road was so winding and going up and down that there was never a km of straight flat road. And I loved it!! Konkan is very beautiful but this region is heaven. Road condition was fair may be because we were traveling just before rainy season and all roads are finally repaired and in good condition at this time.
touch down...
During earlier visits we had stayed in either Mapusa or Panjim so this time we wanted to stay near a beach. A search revealed the north beaches as more 'happening' and with lots of options for a stay. so Calangut it was and it proved to be a correct decision. We did not visit any south Goa beach so we can not really compare but from Internet and local information it looks like they are more secluded, quieter. Next time we will surely explore them.
We finally reached Calangut beach that night by 8:30. but due to time pressure we could not enjoy the roadside halts which are the most important part of such a trip.
Next day there was a Bandh declared but we ventured out to visit fort Aguada. Luckily nothing untoward happened. Goan people are peace loving and always ready to help you. Contrary to common perception there is a huge crowd of families who are letting down their inhibitions for a change, not only young and hip.
 |
| Calangute Beach |
We would like to list down some of our suggestions after this memorable journey
1. Travel before rainy season. all roads are in good condition at this time
2. Keep fuel tank full all the time.
3. Fill tank fully before leaving Goa. petrol is much cheaper in Goa.
4. Check all rubber parts. they become hard and brittle after a year or 2
5. Commence journey on Tuesday. traffic will be much, much less. check for bandhs, festivals etc. during your vacation. they can affect your plans. they almost did to ours. but Goa is a peace loving state so we ventured out to fort Aguada fort.
6. Stay near a beach in Goa. Real life on these beaches starts after 6 pm when people coming by tour buses leave. It is a different world altogether. Crowd is stylish, hip. Music and hotels right on beach are awesome.
7. Goa beaches mean 'ENJOY'. Curtail your rules or just leave the place. A beer with dinner is must. And your trip is not complete without Goan fish curry . One we had in a hotel on Bagha beach was really great. All this costs money so come with loads of it. I assure you it will still be value for money.
8. Dolphin cruise at fort Aguada is a must. what a experience it was seeing 4 dolphins cruising in front of us. best example of synchronized swimming. and boat ride was a roller coaster. not for fainthearted, may be because monsoon was close and seas were a bit rough.
9. Road via Kolhapur is boring except for Amboli ghat and hill station, It is much longer and you end up paying almost 500/- Rs as toll. but with a good fast car you can save time. Most of the people who think of roads only as means of reaching a destination, prefer this route.
There is so much more to write about.But I will stop here and let you explore some more on your own and share your experiences with me.
Shubh Yatra!!
